Are you ready to be a doodle Owner?

Owning a doodle, or any pet, is a big responsibility that requires a significant commitment of time, money, and effort. Before you consider getting a doodle, it is important to carefully consider whether you are ready for the commitment that pet ownership entails.

Some things to consider include:

1. Time: Do you have enough time to devote to a pet on a daily basis, including feeding, exercise, training, and socialization?

2. Space: Do you have a suitable living environment for a doodle, including a yard or nearby park where the dog can exercise and play?

3. Money: Are you prepared to cover the costs associated with owning a doodle, including food, veterinary care, grooming, and other supplies?

4. Commitment: Are you willing to make a long-term commitment to care for your doodle for its entire lifetime, which can be up to 15 years or more?

If you are ready to take on the responsibility of pet ownership and can provide a doodle with the time, space, and resources it needs to thrive, then you may be ready to become a doodle owner.
Our goal is to place our puppies in forever homes. Many dogs end up in shelters and that is not our hope for our STOKESHIRE DOODLES. If at any point, you no longer believe you want to care for your puppy you can always return them. With that being said, here are few pointers before investing in your next best friend!

• If you have children under the age of 10, be prepared to supervise all interactions between your doodle and the child.

• Teach children to not allow your doodle to lick them on the face.

  • 77% of dog bites to children are on the face.

• Do not get a puppy if it is not allowed to be around your family in your home.

  • Your STOKESHIRE DOODLE needs to be primarily a house pet.

  • All of our puppies are going to be active and need walks and playtime.

• Don’t select a STOKESSHIRE DOODLE based on size alone.

  • Mini-Aussiedoodles require more room to run than a Standard Bernedoodle or Sheepadoodle.

  • We advise you to look into our Breed Guidelines that we have on our website to learn the specifics for each individual breed.

    • We’re happy to help you select a doodle puppy that best fits your family.

Do you need a fenced yard?

• If you’re not an early riser, you might need a fenced in yard.

• Dogs should not be left alone outside for long periods of time.

• If you’re not able to interact with your dog for several hours each day, it may not be a good choice.

  • Our doodles are best suited for families with children and at least stay-at-home parent or those who work from home or have a full-time caregiver.

Do you have a home best suited for a Doodle puppy?

• Before getting a puppy, check with your landlord, however, if you own your home, which is our preference, be sure you’re okay with what it looks like to clean up after your puppy.

  • No matter how diligent you are, your puppy will have accidents in your home. It happens.

    • Our STOKESHIRE DESIGNER DOODLES, may shed at some point.

  • Puppies, while teething tend to enjoy chewing. We recommend keeping your puppy in an area in your home that is void of shoes and other materials that a puppy may enjoy eating.

    • We find that Ice and Billy Bones make great alternatives to shoes!

How much does a Doodle cost per year to raise?

The cost of raising a Doodle puppy can vary depending on a number of factors, including the specific breed of Doodle, the age of the puppy, and where you live. Here are some estimates of the costs associated with raising a Doodle puppy:

1. Purchase price: Doodle puppies can range in price from a few hundred to several thousand dollars, depending on the specific breed and the breeder.

2. Vet costs: You can expect to pay for regular vet check-ups, vaccines, and other preventive care for your Doodle puppy. These costs will vary depending on where you live and the specific health needs of your puppy.

3. Food: You will need to purchase high-quality puppy food and possibly supplements as your Doodle grows. The cost of food will depend on the size of your puppy and how much they eat.

4. Training and socialization: It's important to provide your Doodle puppy with training and socialization to ensure they grow up to be well-behaved, confident dogs. This can be done through obedience classes, private lessons, or at-home training. The cost of training will depend on the type of training you choose and where you live.

5. Miscellaneous expenses: You will also need to budget for things like toys, a crate, a collar and leash, and possibly grooming supplies if your Doodle has a long coat.

In total, it's not uncommon for the cost of raising a Doodle puppy to be several thousand dollars over the course of their first year. It's important to carefully consider the costs and responsibilities of pet ownership before bringing a new puppy into your home.

Consider the cost before selecting your Doodle. This is a long-term relationship and the bottom line is your pet will cost money for years to come.

How much does it cost to feed a STOKESHIRE DOODLE?

• Total: $30-$80/month (depending on size, breed, and circumstances)

How much does vet care & medication cost?

• The cost of a routine wellness visit can vary drastically depending on where you live, but will likely fall within $45 to $85 per year.

• Your pet may also need to take heart-worm medication as well as flea and potentially tick prevention every month. There are several different options out there, and your vet can help you decide what versions are best for your dog. Depending on what you choose, that cost can run from $60 to $120 for a six-month supply.

  Total: $14-$27/month (depending on location and specific health needs)

How much does preventive dog health products cost?

• Total: $0-$42/month (depending on dog size and specific health needs)

  • This includes doggy dental products.

How much does Pet Insurance/Unexpected Medical Events Cost for dogs?

• Total: $30-$80/month (depending on size, breed, and circumstances)

How much does it cost to groom a Doodle?

• Doodle baths/grooms can range anywhere from $50 to upwards of $200

  • We recommend 4x Groomings a year.

• Total: $30-$40/month

How much do doodle puppy toys cost?

• Total: $25-$50/month (depending on what you buy and how often)

How much do boarding & Doggie Day Care cost?

• If you’re using a professional service instead of a family friend or the kid next door, dog walking can cost anywhere from $15 to $35 for a 30-minute walk or $20 to $40 for an all-day doggie day care. Overnight boarding costs even more, with many professionals charging anywhere from $45 to over $100 per night.

How much does a Doodle cost per year?

• We estimate that owning a STOKESHIRE DOODLE in the midwest would cost $1800-$3850.00 a year.

WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN YOU BRING YOUR PUPPY HOME?

Welcoming a new furry friend into your life is always an exciting and heartwarming experience. If you're the proud owner of a new Doodle Puppy from Stokeshire Designer Doodles, you're about to start an incredible journey with a highly intelligent and wonderfully affectionate companion. This breed requires special care and attention to ensure they grow into happy and healthy adult dogs. In this instructional post, we will guide you through the essential steps of caring for your new Doodle Puppy, from the moment you bring them home.

Introduction

Bringing a Doodle Puppy home is a pivotal moment that marks the beginning of a lifelong friendship. The puppy is likely to be a bit nervous and shy at first, but with your love and care, they will soon adjust to their new surroundings.

Initial Setup

Before you bring your Doodle Puppy home, ensure you have all the essential supplies. Start with a collar, leash, ID tag, and possibly a harness. You'll also need a comfortable bed, a crate for training and safety, chew toys, and appropriate puppy food. Plan where the puppy's food and water bowls will be located, and set up a designated space for potty training.

Creating a Safe Space

Choose a quiet area in your home, away from foot traffic and noise, to be the Doodle's "safe space." This is especially important during the first few days when the pup is likely to feel more comfortable in a calm environment. Use baby gates to block off dangerous areas and make sure any houseplants are out of reach.

Introducing the Puppy to Their New Environment

When you first arrive home, keep the introduction to their environment short and sweet. Take them immediately to their designated space, show them their bed, and the location of their food and water. Allow them to explore at their own pace, withholding the urge to overwhelm them with attention and interaction.

Feeding and Nutrition

What your Doodle Puppy eats is crucial to their well-being. Consult with Stokeshire for their recommended diet based on the puppy's breed, size, and age. Ensure that you're feeding them high-quality, nutritious food that is appropriate for puppies and that their feeding schedule is consistent. View our https://www.wisconsindesignerdoodles.com/what-should-i-purchase-for-my-doodle-puppy to see what puppy food and other meds we’re currently using.

Recommended Diet and Feeding Schedule

Stokeshire Designer Doodles will provide you with information about the specific food your puppy has been eating. They usually recommend a high-quality puppy food. Feed your puppy small, frequent meals, starting with around four feedings a day and gradually decreasing to three by the time they're 2-3 months old.

Treats and Snacks

Training treats are a valuable tool for rewarding good behavior, but keep them small and low in calories. Avoid giving your Doodle puppy table scraps as they can cause an upset stomach and may lead to begging behaviors.

Training and Socialization

Early training and socialization are critical for a well-adjusted adult dog. Start with basic commands and focus on potty training from day one. Allow your puppy to meet new people and experience different environments to grow into a confident dog.

Basic Commands and Training Tips

Begin with the 'sit', 'stay', and 'come' commands. Use positive reinforcement, such as praise and treats, to encourage learning. Consistency is key, so ensure that everyone in your household uses the same command words and training techniques.

Socializing with Other Pets and People

Introduce your Doodle puppy to other pets and people slowly and in a controlled manner. Attend puppy socialization classes to help them learn appropriate play and interaction skills.

Grooming and Hygiene

The low-shedding coat of a Doodle Puppy will require regular grooming to prevent mats and keep your puppy comfortable. Develop a grooming routine early to make it a positive experience for your puppy. We recommend a PupWell kit for in-between visits at the groomers.

Brushing and Bathing Routines

Start brushing your Doodle Puppy a few times a week with a slicker brush. Use positive reinforcement during grooming sessions, so your puppy associates it with a positive experience. Bathe your puppy every 3-4 months or as needed, using a gentle puppy shampoo.

Nail Trimming and Dental Care

Check your puppy's nails every few weeks and trim them when they get too long. Dental care is also crucial, and you should start by cleaning your puppy's teeth with a soft toothbrush designed for puppies, using toothpaste made for them.

Healthcare

Vaccinations and Vet Visits

Consult with your veterinarian to establish a healthcare routine for your puppy and show them your current vet record. Regular veterinary check-ups are vital for keeping your Doodle Puppy in the best health.

Common Health Issues to Watch For

Keep an eye out for issues such as ear infections or an upset tummy. This is normal after going home.

Conclusion

These steps are just the beginning of the care your Doodle Puppy will require. Remember to be patient, consistent, and loving. With your dedication to their well-being, they are sure to bring you a world of joy and companionship for many years. Enjoy your new adventure with your Stokeshire Designer Doodles puppy and cherish every moment.

What should i feed my doodle?

From 4-8 weeks, we currently use Diamon Naturals Salmon and Potatoe. While we recommend grass-fed or organic Raw Dog Food Choices, we understand that not everyone is able to achieve this easily or cost-effectively. We recommend avoiding foods that include BHA or BHT and choosing foods with natural preservatives such as alpha tocopherols or ascorbate, which are forms of vitamins E & C.

Rapidly growing puppies tend to be eager eaters. Not surprising considering that until they are around six months of age, puppies need two to three times the amount of most nutrients and calories per pound of body weight compared to an adult dog.

A puppy’s first food, generally introduced at three to four weeks of age, should provide complete and balanced nutrition and be formulated to meet the nutrient requirements of growing puppies. A supply of fresh water must be available at all times, but remove water close to 5:00 pm!

When introducing puppy food, mix the puppy food with warm water, let it soak until soft, and then mash it with a fork or pastry blender. A slightly lumpy consistency, not too difficult to chew, is good.

• Cooked, plain white rice can be a good option for a dog with an upset stomach, as it is easy to digest and helps bind stool.

• Plain, boiled pulled chicken with no seasoning is also good option when a dog has an upset stomach.

• Plain canned pumpkin is the healthiest choice for your doodle puppy. Both fresh and canned pumpkin are good sources of nutrients and fiber, but canned pumpkin contains a higher concentration of fiber and nutrients compared to fresh pumpkin. You can mix this with puppy food
  

HOW MUCH SHOULD I FEED MY PUPPY/GROWN DOG?

Setting a Feeding Schedule for your STOKESHIRE DOODLE PUPPY

• Two to Three Months of Age

  • We recommend 4 daily meals

    • Early morning

    • Noon

    • Late Afternoon

    • Late Evening

      • Smaller breeds (Mini-Aussies) may require an additional snack to keep their blood sugar up.

        • Some doodle puppies will prefer this schedule through four months

• Three to Six Months of Age

  • We recommend 3 daily meals

    • Let your puppies eat when you eat, breakfast, lunch and dinner.

• Six to Twelve Months of Age

  • From 6-12 months of age, most puppies do well on two meals a day. Small breeds may still need a third meal or at least a midday snack. Most adult dogs do best on two meals a day, so pan to continue this schedule for the rest of your dog’s life if possible.

• Let your puppy outside 20-30 minutes after each feeding. Make sure what should be available at each feeding as well. We like a Replendish Waterer that is filled a few times a week. During the winter, your puppy may require more water due to the dry air in your home.

• Use your feeding time wisely. This is a time you can work in a little training for your puppy. A hungry puppy is a trainable puppy. For for your food!

  • Keep your sessions short.

• Keep a routine schedule especially on weekends and during vacation days. Your puppy does not understand Holidays or why schedules may change.

  • If there are disruption changes, strive for structure. Be patient and understanding.

• Your puppy should not consume over 10% of their diet in treats.

The Essential Training Nutrients

Active dogs require water, especially during exercise, to work effectively. Mild dehydration in your dog can reduce endurance and strength, especially in hot weather conditions. Drinking small amounts of water helps keep dogs cool by dissipating the heat produced from activities. Though most people don’t consider water to be an essential nutrient, it is the most essential nutrient. Water is important for most biochemical processes in the body and is the most important nutrient for survival. 

Water also has an important role in thermoregulation. Exercise is a heat-producing activity, and dogs must be well-hydrated to respond to increased heat production, particularly when exposed to extreme temperatures and humidity. Water helps cool the body’s core temperature. Mild dehydration, even as little as 1%, can make it difficult for your dog to cool down during exercise. Water also helps remove the byproducts of energy metabolism, which also impact endurance and performance. 

An over-enthusiastic or overworked dog runs the risk of heat stress and dehydration, the greatest threats to an exercising dog. Since dogs don’t sweat, except through their paws, their primary ways to eliminate body heat are through panting and moisture evaporation through the mouth. This also results in a significant way to lose body water. A dog’s most significant loss of body water during prolonged exercise is simply through breathing, followed closely by an increase in urine production. 

Though dogs may be distracted by their environment or activity, owners should encourage them to drink a small amount of water every 15 to 20 minutes. A squirt bottle works well for this purpose. Why do this? Even with voluntary access and consumption of fresh water after exercise, dogs rarely rehydrate themselves adequately. A dog’s ability to perform at an optimal level is linked to proper hydration. Water, the essential nutrient, helps keep dogs healthy and hydrated so they work at their best. 

Active dogs, especially those that take part in endurance exercise, experience oxidative stress due to their prolonged increase in oxygen consumption. Antioxidants help minimize oxidative damage to cells during intense activity and following exercise during recovery.                 

Oxygen metabolism naturally generates free radicals, which are unstable particles that can injure cells and cause oxidative damage. Active dogs that are fed a diet with less than adequate antioxidants to offset natural free-radical production may not perform at their best, particularly with consecutive days of exercise. They also may suffer from muscle stiffness and disruption of cellular balance. 

Dogs need a rich antioxidant blend to help support their immune system and protect cells from the cellular damage of free radicals. Antioxidant nutrients include selenium, zinc and vitamins A and E. These nutrients help support a dog’s immune system to scavenge and clean up free radicals that can cause damage to cells.

How Do I Get Ready to Bring Home a Doodle Puppy?

Bringing home a new puppy is an exciting and rewarding experience, but it can also be a bit overwhelming. Here are some things to consider as you prepare for your new furry family member:

1. Puppy-proof your home: Make sure your home is safe for your new puppy. This includes securing trash cans, removing any small or fragile objects, and making sure any toxic plants or chemicals are out of reach.

2. Set up a designated area for your puppy: Choose a room or area of your home where your puppy can sleep, eat, and play. You will want to set up a crate or pen, as well as a comfortable bed and water and food bowls.

3. Gather supplies: You will need a few basic supplies to get started, including a collar and leash, food and water bowls, a crate or pen, toys, a bed, and food. You may also want to invest in a puppy-sized harness and a retractable leash for walks.

4. Consider crate training: Crate training can be a useful tool for potty training and helping your puppy feel secure when you're not home. It's important to make the crate a positive place for your puppy by introducing it gradually and providing treats and toys while they are inside.

5. Start training early: It's important to start training your puppy as soon as you bring them home. This will help them learn basic commands and good behaviors, and establish a strong bond between you and your puppy. Consider enrolling in a puppy training class or working with a private trainer to get started.

6. Set a routine: Puppies do well with a consistent routine, so it's important to establish one from the start. This includes regular feeding times, potty breaks, playtime, and quiet time.

7. Make a schedule for puppy care: As a new puppy owner, you will need to be available to care for your puppy's needs throughout the day. Consider setting aside specific times for feeding, potty breaks, playtime, and training.

By following these steps and being prepared, you will be able to give your new puppy the best start possible and enjoy a happy and healthy relationship with your furry friend.

How to Crate Train Doodle Puppie?

At Stokeshire, we begin crate training at 6.5 weeks.

To crate train your doodle, no matter their size, you should follow these steps consistently:

1. Introduce your doodle to their crate using positive reinforcement. We like to use a soft crate for the first few weeks, keeping them next to our bed.

2. Place treats and comforting items like blankets and favorite toys in the crate. We recommend a Snuggle Puppy Heartbeat Stuffed Plush Dog Toy - Pet Anxiety Relief and Calming aid to help with transition.

3. Begin feeding your pup meals in the crate.

4. Every two hours, take your doodle outside. Make sure that you are bringing them straight from the crate to the door each time.

5. Ensure that every time the crate door is opened, you bring your puppy outside.

6. Be mindful of giving your doodle adequate playtime and bonding time with you.

7. Continue these steps until your puppy always goes to the door when they need to potty.

This article will answer any questions you have about crate training, potty training, house training, and creating a better-behaved dog. It will cover each size variation and the details you need to know in caring for each unique doodle breed. Crate training can seem intimidating at first, but with a brilliant breed like the doodle, it will be a piece of cake!

Crate Training doodles

Crate training is a method frequently used to train puppies. The process designates a safe space for your pup and instills in your doodle that, when they leave the crate, it is for a potty break.

You may find it difficult or unsettling to leave your pup in a crate, especially during the first few weeks that they are home, and you want to cuddle and love your new doodle. However, establishing a routine as soon as possible will be the fastest and easiest way to guarantee your dog has fewer potty accidents in your home.

Consistency is key, and if you don’t follow the steps of crate training properly, you will have a dog that cannot distinguish which locations are bathroom spots.

How To Crate Train doodle Puppies

The process you will follow to crate train your doodle puppies consists of the following steps:

1. Introduce them to the crate and use plenty of positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement will be your greatest ally in the crate training method. It allows your puppy to feel safe. If they don’t feel welcome, it will be hard to get them to go into the crate willingly.

2. Set some treats or toys in the crate and have it decked out with blankets and other comforting items. Don’t ever force your dog to go in. Allow them to sniff around the area and decide for themselves.

3. Start feeding them meals in the crate, making this a safe spot where they can let their guard down. Always keep water in the crate and make it a nice place to rest.

4. Take your puppy out every 2 hours and always take them directly outside after they come out of their crate.

5. Make sure that while crate training, especially in the early stages, when the crate door is opened, you bring your doodle pup directly outside. This is an essential aspect of the process, so don’t open their door unless you are ready to take them out. They need to understand that when it’s bathroom time, they go straight outside.

6. Make sure that they are getting a balance of play and bonding time but are still going out every two hours or so, then directly back to their crate. For the most part, this is what the first month or two will run until you can trust them to tell you when they need to go out by going directly to the door.

7. By the 6-month mark, your puppy will be able to hold their bladder for around 4-6 hours, but you should never make a dog (of any age) hold their bowels and bladder for over 8 hours.

For more visual learners, check out this video:

How Long Should Crate Training Take?

There is no exact timeline for how long this process will take because all dogs are different, but it should last around 4-16 weeks for most dogs. You could see drastic results in the first week and be able to offer your doodle more playtime, but you should remain diligent no matter how fast your pup catches on.

By the third month, they should be taking you to the door or pawing at it when they have to go. The goal of crate training is that they will be able to communicate to you when they need to go in the future.

Pay attention to your own dog’s progress and determine how much more regimented their training needs to be. If they are showing significant progress, reward them with more freedom but continue taking them out at the same time while heading directly to the door each time.

It will be less about how long it takes for them to pick it up and more about your determination to keep them focused on those good habits for months, so they become permanent behaviors.

The Potty Schedule Outlined

In case you prefer a more specific outline or blueprint for scheduling, the following list gives the times that you should make sure to bring your doodle outside to use the bathroom:

• First thing when you wake up in the morning

• Before each play break

• After each play break

• Every 2 hours or so during the afternoon

• After their nap

• After each meal (about 10-20 minutes after eating to digest and have to go badly)

• After drinking lots of water

• Right before bed

As you can see, your doodle should get plenty of time outside of the crate. If you are not offering them this free time, you are doing it unethically and irresponsibly.

Don’t Rush the Crate Training Process

You want to avoid rushing the crate training process. It will be a gradual process of integrating them into the crate, and then once they are trained, slowly integrating them out of the crate while leaving the door open as an option.

Follow these steps to implement the crate training process correctly:

• Start with more social hours at first with lots of potty breaks.

• After the first week or so, slowly add more crate time and reduce the amount of free social hours, adding an hour or two a day for the first few weeks.

• The middle of the process (week 1-6) should be very focused on maintaining a schedule.

• Two hours in the crate

• Right outside for a potty break.

• 1 hour of playtime every 3-4 hours to get their legs moving

• Some cuddle time, especially in the evening

• Back in the crate to sleep and aiming to make it through at least 6-7 hours at night

By the second month or around the 6-week mark, you will notice they are improving on their potty training. At this point, you can increase the social hours and reduce the crate hours.

Don’t rush your pup at the beginning or the end of their crate training. They will catch on in time, and they will finish their training when they are ready. Gradual changes will be less noticeable by the doodle, and you won’t throw off their inner-clock. Remember that accidents will happen during this training, and it is important not to punish your puppy because of them.

Adding Puppy Comforts the Crate Training Routine

You should focus on making your doodle’s crate as comfortable and relaxing as possible. You can add the following items to make it cozy for your pup:

• Fuzzy blankets

• Towels

• A small water bowl

• Toys

• Chew bones (Use rubber that is good for puppy teeth and gums. Do not use a real bone that could sliver off into sharp pieces. This could be a choking hazard for canines of any age, so you need to be very careful in selecting bones).

These are some comforts that will make the crate feel like a safe haven instead of a punishment.

I recently wrote the guide to the best toys for doodles. I discuss crate training related topics such as boredom and separation anxiety, as well as the best toys to help curb these behaviors.

How To Encourage Your doodle to Use A Crate

If you want the crate to be a place that your doodle enjoys:

• Don’t yell at them, spank them, or punish them for accidents. This will only make them fear the crate and you, making the process take significantly longer or not work at all.

• Make it cozy and safe.

• Make meal-time designated to the crate.

• Leave treats in the crate when they successfully hold it for a potty break.

• Slowly add to the amount of time they must hold it. Some go by the method of the month to hour ratio for potty breaks. For example, if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for two hours. If your puppy is three months old, they can hold it for three hours, and so on.

• Develop a term you say excitedly to invite them to go back to their crate. Something like, ‘Kennel time,’ or, ‘hop in your crate.’ Something that they hear every time and will associate with the crate to excitedly follow your cue and hop in there!

  
  
  

Why You Should Crate Train Your Poodle?

The reason that crate training works is because a dog is a relatively hygienic animal that will not want to sit with their urine or fecal matter. They don’t like to soil their designated ‘safe-spaces,’ so the dog learns new habits of not soiling their shelter while simultaneously learning that outdoors is the only place to use the bathroom.

Some reasons why you should crate train your doodle are:

• It teaches them not to poop or pee where they sleep.

• It helps strengthen their resolve to control their bowels and bladder.

• It teaches your dog that they can’t have access to the entire house to do things like chew on the furniture or cause chaos. This offers you peace of mind knowing you are not leaving them to develop bad habits.

• It helps your dog become well-trained for travel and comfortable with future crate-required plans.

• It offers them a safe shelter that is all their own.

• It lets them know that you alone establish their schedule.

• It helps the dog see you as the alpha and aids in your retaining control. This avoids having an out-of-control puppy that is beyond training.

• It will end up being their security blanket, and if done correctly, crate-training offers them a space they can retreat in for serenity and solitude.

Don’t feel that confinement is cruel. It’s only temporary, and it can offer your dog a much-needed sense of security when they’ve just been separated from their mother and siblings.

Mistakes to Avoid When Crate Training Your doodle

There are plenty of ways to accidentally do a disservice to your dog while crate training them. Avoid these harmful mistakes:

• Don’t make the crate a frightening place – Make the crate a cozy spot for your dog to retreat to. If it feels like the crate is a punishment, you could psychologically torment your dog by making them go in a place you’re forcing them to go. Make the crate feel like a spa, and don’t allow your dog to fear the crate. This will result in them fighting you the entire time, and you risk them not properly being potty trained.

• Don’t forget to take them out every two hours – Puppies under six months of age have incredibly small bladders. You will need to take them out often to avoid them sitting in their waste. You may consider taking them out every hour, but you must take them out at least every two hours. Do not confuse crate training with locking them up all day because they will need many potty and social breaks.

• Don’t overlook adult dogs – If you are training a mature dog, it will be harder to ‘teach an old dog new tricks,’ but not impossible. Keep in mind that their bladders might be larger, and they can hold it for longer, but not more than 4-6 hours. You may have to reprogram their brain that they need to hold it unless they are outside.

• Don’t avoid playing with your pup – This is still your bonding period with the puppy, and you need to socialize your puppy, as well. They want to be creating a relationship with you and the world. If they are not getting time to play and enjoy human interaction, your doodle can quickly become depressed or develop anxiety. Make sure that their entire life isn’t the crate, or you will have a very socially-intimidated and shy doodle on your hands.

Just as you wouldn’t want to be kept in a box all day and night, your puppy wants to get out and enjoy life too. This is probably the most important takeaway you should hold on to.

Does the Size of Your doodle matter When Crate Training?

Now that you understand the basics of crate training, you must learn the differences between each type of doodle. The doodle breed overall has won countless blue ribbons, is the national dog of France, and is known for its pedigree and class.

The three classifications for doodles that are based on their size are:

• Toy – The smallest variation will often be less than 10 inches tall and weigh under 9 pounds. They are bred from larger doodles, so they retain the same behavioral and personality characteristics as larger doodles.

• Miniature – The miniature doodle is closer to the toy doodle in size and is between 11 to 15 inches tall and weighs between 10 and 20 pounds.

• Standard – The largest variation of doodle will be over 16 inches tall (with most being around 25 to 30 inches tall) and weigh between 40 and 75 pounds.

  
  
  

Selecting A Crate for Your doodle

There are tons of crates to choose from, but your primary considerations going into the crate selection will be the following:

• Select a crate that allows your dog to stand up, spin around, and not feel claustrophobic.

• You will want it a few inches taller than their height when standing straight.

• Do not select a crate that is large enough for them to sleep on one corner and pee/poop in the other.

• If there is room to designate a bathroom area in the crate, it is too large.

Crates for pets will most commonly come in the following materials:

• Wire

• Plastic

• Fabric

If you select a wire crate, your pup can see their surroundings. This allows them to look around and feel included, while a plastic crate may have walls that make them feel too confined or left out.

Best Crates for Each doodle Size

It can be difficult to know what size crate will work best for your doodle. Here are my favorite crates on Amazon for each toy, miniature, and. standard doodles. Just click the link(s) that corresponds to your doodles size for more detailed product information, as well as current prices for each size crate:

• Toy doodles – PetMate ProValu Double Door Wire Crate 19-inches (around the smallest size available and perfect for a dog that is under 15-inches tall)

• Miniature doodles – Folding Leak Proof Dog Crate – 21 inches in height (perfect for a dog that is around 16-inches tall)

• Standard doodles – New World 36-inch Dog Crate (depending on your doodle’s height, you can aim for the 36-inch to 42-inch sizes of this crate brand)

All crates may be uncomfortable and require blankets/soft fabrics. 

Where to Place Your Poodle’s Crate

You should place the crate somewhere that your doodle will still feel like a part of your family! Some tips to keep in mind are:

Don’t:

• Isolate them by placing the cage in the smallest and darkest room of the house

• Put the crate in the basement or attic

• Put the crate in the backyard

• Put it somewhere you will rarely go

• Put it where they feel alone and forgotten

Do:

• Put it nearby where you are so your doodle can connect with you

• Put it where your doodle can see you

• Consider putting it in your bedroom/office or where you are the most likely to keep an eye on them

• Put it in the heart of the home where they will receive the most socialization

• Remember to make time for your puppy regularly throughout the day.

  
  
  

Crate Training Your Poodle: Behavioral Problems and Solutions

Your dog will sometimes cry during the early stages of their crate training. Don’t allow this to discourage you or throw off the routine you have been working to maintain.

Some common behavioral issues of the doodle breed to be aware of are:

• Barking at all hours of the night

• Digging holes in the yard or your carpet

• Chewing on furniture or shoes

• Jumping the fence when let outside

• Stealing human food

• Hand chewing or biting

• Potty accidents

Many of these behaviors are triggered by a bored doodle that is not getting enough socialization, exercise, or bonding time.

Steps to diminish these bad habits are:

• Increase their outdoor time

• Increase the exercise or work they are doing during that outdoor time – if they are barking excessively at night, it’s because they aren’t getting that energy out during the day.

• Play more games with them

• Provide toys that are mentally stimulating, like puzzles that release treats

• Provide more chew toys if they are biting hands. They may be teething and need special Puppy Chew Toys

• Teach them more tricks and take opportunities to train them

Your doodle is very intelligent and loves to be trained. If they are acting out, it’s probably because they are not having their needs met. Give them more brain activity and tasks to accomplish, like training, and the happier your doodle will be.

Dogs like to feel a sense of purpose, just like humans. Show them more attention, and most of these bad habits will cease. Without adequate care, your doodle will become depressed, anti-social, anxious, or downright badly behaved.

Check out this video to help stop your doodle from barking in her crate:

Final Tips on The Crate Training Process

Potty training your doodle puppy will be a challenging but worthwhile process! You don’t want a dog that uses your home as their toilet, so as hard as it is to lock up your new fur-baby, it is necessary. This psychological training will condition them to follow your lead, have their safe-space and territory, while also communicating more clearly when they need to go outside.

Some parting words of wisdom for you well-researched doodle-owners are:

• Don’t put a timetable on it. Crate-training isn’t about rushing them but allowing your doodle to set their timeline. Take their lead in how ready they are to be free of the crate. If they don’t seem prepared, believe them.

• If they cry at night, it is normal. It can be reduced by bringing the crate closer to where you sleep, so they don’t feel alone or frightened. Animals get scared of the dark, just like humans. Reduce their anxiety by making them feel less isolated.

• When your puppy has playtime, leave the crate door open. You may notice that they go back in willingly.

• Crate training mimics thousands of years ago when dogs would have a ‘den-like’ space or ‘wolf-den.’ As pack creatures, they want their space to feel cozy but not claustrophobic. The right crate connects to their instincts and should be well-embraced by the doodle breed.

• Don’t diminish your hard work by making the crate a fearful entity to the pup. If you are going to commit, commit properly by avoiding punishments and making this a consequence-free period of learning for them. This will increase the odds of a successfully potty-trained doodle that respects you and doesn’t fear you.

  
  
  

In Conclusion

Take the crate training technique on in baby-steps. The tortoise beat the hare for a reason. Offer your dog love, affection, treats, and consistency – and they will be potty-trained in no time!

Crate training should not be about leaving them in the crate all day, but more about instilling healthy habits. The crate should feel like their safe space. If your doodle is rejecting crate training or doesn’t seem to be taking to it as you hoped, it could be that it feels too much like a punishment instead of a reward. Find more ways to add comforts and offer them treats each time they go in their crate.

Be mindful not to rush the process or force it upon them. It will happen naturally as you develop your routine with one another. Be patient, consistent, and reliable – you may quickly notice that the crate is your pup’s favorite place!

HOW DO I SOCIALIZE MY DOODLE PUPPY?

Socialization means learning to be part of society. When we talk about socializing pet puppies, it means helping them learn to be comfortable as a pet within human society-a society that includes many different types of people, environments, buildings, sights, noises, smells, animals and other dogs.

Most young animals, including dogs, are naturally made to be able to get used to the everyday things they encounter in their environment-until they reach a certain age. When they reach that age, they are naturally made to become much more suspicious of things they haven’t yet experienced. God made them with an incredible genome to adapt to their environment through gene expression, epigenetics and natural selection over time. This age-specific natural development lets a young puppy get comfortable with the everyday sights, sounds, people and animals that will be a part of his life. It ensures that he doesn’t spend his life jumping in fright at every blowing leaf or bird song. The later suspicion they develop in later puppyhood also ensures that he does react with a healthy dose of caution to new things that could truly be dangerous.

What Age Is Best for Puppy Socialization?

Puppies are most accepting of new experiences between 3 and 12 weeks old. After that age, they become much more cautious of anything they haven’t yet encountered. From about 12 to 18 weeks old the opportunity to easily socialize the puppy ends-and with each passing week it becomes harder to get the pup to accept and enjoy something that he’s initially wary of. After 18 weeks old, it’s extremely difficult, and sometimes impossible, to teach a dog to like something new, or help him become comfortable with something he or she finds frightening.

Why Is Puppy Socialization Important?

Well-socialized puppies usually develop into safer, more relaxed and enjoyable pet dogs. This is because they’re more comfortable in a wider variety of situations than poorly socialized dogs, so they’re less likely to behave fearfully or aggressively when faced with something new. Poorly socialized dogs are much more likely to react with fear or aggression to unfamiliar people, dogs and experiences. Dogs who are relaxed about honking horns, cats, cyclists, veterinary examinations, crowds and long stairwells are easier and safer to live with than dogs who find these situations threatening. Well-socialized dogs also live much more relaxed, peaceful and happy lives than dogs who are constantly stressed out by their environment.

Socialization isn’t an “all or nothing” project. You can socialize a puppy a bit, a lot, or a whole lot. The wider the range of experiences you expose your doodle puppy to, the better chances he or she are of being comfortable in a wide variety of situations as an adult.

HOW DO I SOCIALIZE MY DOODLE PUPPY?

We recommend taking your puppy with you everywhere! The more places, sights, sounds, and smells the better. The rule of thumb with puppy socialization is to keep a close eye on your puppy’s reaction to whatever you expose him or her to so that you can tone things down if your pup seems at all frightened. Always follow up a socialization experience with praise, petting, a fun game or a special treat. You want to associate new experiences with positive reinforcement. If you have begun crate training, we recommend allowing your puppy to go to their ‘safe space’ and trying again in the future. Whenever negative experiences happen, it’s important to introduce your puppy to the scary situation much more gradually, and to make a big effort to do something your puppy loves during the situation or right afterwards.

Other Safe Ways to Safely Socialize a doodle Puppy Who Is Not Fully Vaccinated

• Drive to a busy shopping area and hang out with your pup on a mat at the entrance. Strangers will flock to you because they want to pet your puppy and they’ll willingly feed him the treats that you’ve brought with you.

• Host a puppy party! Invite friends and family over, play some music, toss some streamers, and pass your pup around.

• Bring your puppy to a park. Supervise the children interacting with him or her to make sure he’s not frightened by them and they’re being gentle.

• Take your doodle pup on car rides through different neighborhoods, drive-thrus, car washes, and out into the country where he’ll see and smell a variety of farm animals.

• Arrange play sessions with other puppies and adult dogs who you know are healthy and friendly.

• If your puppy is small enough, carry him around town and let strangers pet him and give him treats.

Should I be concerned about my puppy or I contracting a disease while socializing?

The risk of infection is quite small compared to the much larger risk of your puppy developing serious behavior problems with fear and aggression later in life. Keep your puppy up to date on their vaccinations and take proper precautions. The great news for you, is that dogs help you build your immune system! Dogs work like a probiotic, helping you to develop healthy bacteria colonies that in turn boost your immune system – stopping you from getting ill and, potentially, keeping you having allergies. source

The Puppy’s Rule of Twelve

Make sure all experiences are safe and positive for the puppy. Each encounter should include treats and lots of praise. Slow down and add distance if your puppy is scared! By the time a puppy is 12 weeks old, it should have: (If your puppy is over 12 weeks start right away with this socialization guide.)

1. Experienced 12 different surfaces: wood, woodchips, carpet, tile, cement, linoleum, grass, wet grass, dirt, mud, puddles, deep pea gravel, grates, uneven surfaces, on a table, on a chair, etc.

2. Played with 12 different objects: fuzzy toys, big & small balls, hard toys, funny sounding toys, wooden items, paper or cardboard items, milk jugs, metal items, car keys, etc.

3. Experienced 12 different locations: front yard (daily), other people’s homes, school yard, lake, pond, river, boat, basement, elevator, car, moving car, garage, laundry room, kennel, veterinarian hospital (just to say hi & visit, lots of cookies, no vaccinations), grooming salon (just to say hi), etc.

4. Met and played with 12 new people (outside of family): include children, adults (mostly men), elderly adults, people in wheelchairs, walkers, people with canes, crutches, hats, sunglasses, etc.

5. Exposed to 12 different noises (ALWAYS keep positive and watch puppy’s comfort level – we don’t want the puppy scared): garage door opening, doorbell, children playing, babies screaming, big trucks, Harley motorcycles, skateboards, washing machine, shopping carts rolling, power boat, clapping, loud singing, pan dropping, horses neighing, vacuums, lawnmowers, birthday party, etc.

6. Exposed to 12 fast moving objects (don’t allow to chase): skateboards, roller-skates, bicycles, motorcycles, cars, people running, cats running, scooters, vacuums, children running, children playing soccer, squirrels, cats, horses running, cows running, etc.

7. Experienced 12 different challenges: climb on, in, off and around a box, go through a cardboard tunnel, climb up and down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide & seek, go in and out a doorway with a step up or down, exposed to an electric sliding door, umbrella, balloons, walk on a wobbly table (plank of wood with a small rock underneath), jump over a broom, climb over a log, bathtub (and bath) etc.

8. Handled by owner (& family) 12 times a week: hold under arm (like a football), hold to chest, hold on floor near owner, hold in-between owner’s legs, hold head, look in ears, mouth, in-between toes, hold and take temperature (ask veterinarian), hold like a baby, trim toe nails, hold in lap, etc.

9. Eaten from 12 different shaped containers: wobbly bowl, metal, cardboard box, paper, coffee cup, china, pie plate, plastic, frying pan, Kong, Treatball, Bustercube, spoon fed, paper bag, etc.

10. Eaten in 12 different locations: back yard, front yard, crate, kitchen, basement, laundry room, bathroom, friend’s house, car, school yard, bathtub, up high (on work bench), under umbrella, etc.

11. Played with 12 different puppies (or safe adult dogs) as much as possible. Left alone safely, away from family & other animals (5-45 minutes) 12 times a week.

12. Experienced a leash and collar 12 different times in 12 different locations.

How do I groom my Doodle?

Groom starts with weekly maintenance and cares partnered with bathing using an all-natural shampoo. It is highly concentrated, generously fortified with therapeutic-grade essential oils, and formulated with your pet’s safety and cleanliness in mind. This plant-based, deodorizing formula is tough on dirt, but gentle on your pet’s skin, making for a soft, moisturized, healthy-looking coat! Animal Scents Shampoo cleans, conditions, and protects your pet’s coat without harmful ingredients. Formulated with seven pure essential oils and other natural ingredients, this shampoo is safe and effective for your doodle. Care should be taken to prevent contact with the eyes. We also recommend these organic grooming products for your puppy. Whichever you choose, be sure to check the label. Most shampoos and soaps have sulfates, which are cleansing agents. While they aren't necessarily harmful, they really strip away everything from hair – both the good and the bad. This leaves your hair and scalp dry, and it makes your scalp overproduce oils. Parabens, chemical preservatives, are also very common in cosmetics. These can be especially dangerous to you and your pet, as they have been linked to an increased risk of breast cancer. Many veterinarians trained in herb and essential oil therapy understand and use natural essential oil sprays that contain lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, catnip, lemon, citronella, lemongrass, rosemary, melaleuca, oregano, palo santo, and basil to help repel mosquitoes, fleas, and lice as well as ticks. Ticks hate the smell of lemon, orange, cinnamon, lavender, peppermint, and rose geranium so they'll avoid latching on to anything that smells of those items. Any of these or a combination can be used in DIY sprays or added to almond oil and rubbed on exposed skin.

Whether you choose to have your doodle professionally groomed or try your hand at DIY Doodle grooming, there are a few basic grooming skills that are necessary for every doodle parent.

Step one: Purchase: a slicker brush, a steel comb, and nail clippers (see below to learn about different types of nail clippers). These are the tools necessary for basic doodle maintenance. Your dog will need regular brushing and nail trimming in between full grooming sessions.

Basic Doodle Grooming Tools

The first step to giving your doodle a complete haircut on your own is to gather the needed supplies. Some you may own already. Others you may need to purchase. You can usually find all of these items at a local pet store, although I have found the same products to be significantly cheaper on Amazon.

1. Dog Clippers (with detachable blade) - a #10 blade will likely be included. If not, purchase one for trimming your doodle's belly, bottom, and under her ears.

2. Coolant

3. Hair Remover

4. Clipper Comb Extension Set

5. Steel Comb

6. Scissors - ballpoint (or blunt-tipped) is best for the safety of your beloved pooch

7. Thinning Shears

8. Shampoo & Conditioner (I prefer leave-in conditioner so I don't have to rinse my dogs twice)

9. Detangler if needed

10. Towels

11. A Leash or other means for keeping your dog still

If you plan to groom your doodle regularly, consider purchasing a grooming table with an arm.

Bathing Guide

Proper bathing is key to maintaining your Doodle's coat and skin health. Here's how:

1. Brush First: Before bathing, brush your Doodle thoroughly to remove tangles and loose fur.

2. Use Lukewarm Water: Ensure the water is not too hot or cold to keep your pet comfortable.

3. Apply Shampoo: Gently massage the shampoo into their coat, avoiding the eyes and ears. Rinse thoroughly to prevent residue build-up.

4. Condition: Use a conditioner to maintain the coat's softness. Leave it on for a few minutes before rinsing.

5. Drying: Towel-dry your Doodle, then use a pet dryer on a low setting to prevent matting.

Brushing Techniques

Regular brushing is essential to prevent matting and maintain your Doodle's coat. Follow these steps:

• Frequency: Aim to brush your Doodle at least three times a week.

• Gentle Detangling: Start with a slicker brush to remove knots, then use a comb for thorough detangling.

• Sectioning: Work in sections, starting from the head and moving downwards, to ensure you've covered all areas.

• Positive Reinforcement: Reward your Doodle with treats to create a positive grooming experience.

Trimming Nails

Keeping your Doodle's nails trimmed is crucial for their comfort and mobility. Here's a step-by-step guide:

1. Inspect: Examine the nails for a clear view of the quick (the pink area).

2. Cut Carefully: Use nail clippers or a grinder, trimming a small amount at a time to avoid cutting the quick.

3. Stay Calm: Keep your Doodle calm with soothing words and treats.

4. Regular Checks: Trim nails every 3-4 weeks or as needed to maintain an ideal length.

Ear and Eye Care

Proper care of your Doodle's ears and eyes minimizes the risk of infections:

• Ear Cleaning: Use a vet-recommended ear cleaner and cotton balls to gently clean the inner ear. Check for any signs of redness or discharge.

• Eye Cleaning: Wipe around the eyes with a damp cloth to remove debris or tear stains. Be gentle to avoid irritation.

Professional Grooming

While at-home grooming is vital, professional services offer additional benefits:

• Frequency: Consider professional grooming every 6-8 weeks, depending on your Doodle's coat type and lifestyle.

• Benefits: Professionals can handle intricate tasks like coat trimming, hand-stripping, and intensive skin treatments.

• Peace of Mind: Trust their expertise for a thorough grooming experience that maintains your Doodle's coat health.

Trimming your doodle’s Face

Who doesn't love that quintessential hair in the eyes? It's almost a trademark characteristic of doodles. But it doesn't take long that one cute curl to become an entire tuft of hair, hiding her eyes and blocking her vision! Our favorite tool for trimming the hair around doodle's eyes is a pair of thinning shears because they help cut away unwanted hairs without leaving a distinct line. You'll also want a pair of small blunt tipped scissors.

The Sanitary Clip

There are a few extra grooming steps you can take at home to help keep your doodle clean and tidy in between grooming appointments. Expect to perform this maintenance every 4-6 weeks.

A pair of sturdy dog clippers with a detachable blade is a worthwhile investment. Use you dog clippers and a #10 blade to trim your dog's belly, behind, and under the ears. Doing a maintenance trim will help decrease the frequency of your doodle's grooming appointments, so the dog clippers will quickly pay for themselves. Your doodle has a thick coat and will benefit from clippers designed specifically for grooming dogs. Don’t use clippers you would normally use on yourself.

Types of Cuts for Doodles

Teddy Bear Cut

The Teddy Bear Cut, also known as the Doodle Puppy Cut, is by far the most popular type of Doodle haircut.  The Teddy Bear haircut gives your doodle short hair all-around between 1-2 inches in length — some groomers will cut down to 3/4 inch length if you want a shorter haired look and don’t want to go to the groomers as often.  The standard puppy cut looks great and is cute on many different types of curly haired dogs.

There’s no real standard definition to the Teddy Bear Cut, so groomers will often ask the hair length you want.  This trim also typically includes a short hair trim around ears, full-face trim around the eyes, clipped and non-feathered tail cut and a round feet trimming.  If this is the first time your Doodle is getting groomed, we highly recommend that you get the Teddy Bear Haircut.

Teddy Bear Cut features:

• Most common Doodle haircut

• Evenly shaved throughout the body – Approximately 1-2 inches in hair length

• Easy to bathe and clean your dog

• A Doodle short hair style cut

• Ideal to prevent matted curly hair

• Doodle looks younger with a fluffy and smooth look

Poodle Cut

This popular type of Doodle haircut style derives from the traditional Poodle styling, but works on doodles due to the long curly hair. Generally speaking, the poodle cut has extremely short hair around the belly and face areas (<1 inch in length). The hair is left really long around the ears, tail, and top of the head (2-4 inches in length). Some owners also leave the hair long around the legs. The poodle cut makes your dog look refined and smart. This cut is also easy to maintain since the majority of the hair is cut really short. This means less grooming, brushing, and maintaining!

Poodle Cut features:

• Intelligent and mature look

• Common on poodles, but looks great on Doodles

• Easy to maintain

• Short hair around the body. Long hair on ears, tail, and top of the head.

Doodle Lion Cut

The goal of the Doodle Lion Cut is to make your dog look like a lion.  This is done by shaving the hair on the back half of the dog to approximately 1/4 inch in length and doing a light trim around the dogs face.  In order to successfully achieve the Doodle Lion Cut, you have to leave hair on the dogs tail, feet, and around the chest area.

The best looking dog in the neighborhood and at the dog park – stylish, bold, and predator-like look.

• Brings lots of smiles to kids and adults faces as you pass by

• Medium maintenance with lots of brushing on the long-haired sections (mane, feet, tail, chest) to prevent matting.

• The Doodle short hair sections are easy to maintain

• Long hair around the mane, tail, and paws. Short hair everywhere else.

Doodle Lamb Cut

The Doodle lamb cut started as a poodle trend, but let’s be honest, it looks great on all doodles!  The Doodle lamb cut is an adventurous and stylish cut that is relatively easy to maintain.  This is one of my personal favorite types of Doodle haircuts.

To achieve the lamb cut, you must give your dog the Teddy Bear Cut around it’s body (1 inch length) but leave the hair around the legs longer (2-4 inches).  The lamb cut is pretty hilarious because your dogs leg hair will bounce up and down as they run outside.

There are several variations of the lamb cut.  Some people leave the hair on legs and around the ears while trimming the body.  Others leave the hair long on the legs and tail.  Experiment new styles with your Doodle and make them look gorgeous.

Lamb Cut features:

• Easy to maintain since it’s a variation of the Doodle Teddy Bear Cut

• Prevents matted hair around the body

• Adventurous looking hair

• Short hair around the body. Long hair around the legs, ears, and top of the head.

Doodle Kennel Cut

The kennel cut is one of the most popular types of doodle haircuts because its the easiest cut to maintain, easiest to clean, and keeps your doodle cool during the summer months. This is a very practical cut that is the shortest common haircut for doodles aside from a complete shaving.

The kennel cut is basically a very short and even shave around your dogs body (less than 1 inch).  This cut has the most financial incentives: less frequent grooming visits, very little brushing until the hair grows longer than 1 inch, and makes your dog easier to bathe. 

Doodle Kennel Cut features:

• The shortest doodle cut (even shave <1 inch in length)

• Helps your dog stay cool in the summer months

• Save money by having to groom less!

• Easy to bathe, less brushing, and a cleaner coat

how do i care for my doodle puppy?

Overview

If you already have a Doodle, no doubt you already know how much time and effort must go into caring for your canine family member; however, it’s easy to get used to a particular routine and doing this can cause owners to overlook a few care elements or let just a bit too much time pass in between. In addition, for some care related tasks, owners can be unsure about how often these should be done or the best way to go about doing them. And for anyone who is thinking about bringing a Doodle into their home, it’s always a good idea to understand the scope of the responsibility and plan for it. For these reasons, this section will cover the 9 most important care tips for a Doodle of any age.

Care Tip #1: Offer a high-quality food 

What you feed your Doodle will greatly affect their health, both now and long-term. Far too many commercial brands are subpar; they may have chemicals such as artificial coloring, flavoring and preservatives which can cause everything from itchy skin to upset stomach. Some are linked to neurological issues and certain cancers.

Far too many dog foods also have fillers which are cheap ingredients that only serve to plump up food (making it appear as if there is more than is actually there); these are not absorbed by the body and simply get flushed out. These are responsible for making a dog hungry soon after he ate which is linked to coprophagia and malnutrition.

You'll also want to keep away from meat by-products which are animal parts deemed unfit for human consumption. These are typically referred to as 4-D animals which stands for diseased, dying, dead, or disabled and can be just about any species found as roadkill or sourced from zoos or farms. Body parts that are put into dog food as by-products include beaks, hooves, spinal tissue, spleens, and other tissue that you would not want your Doodle to be eating.

Issues that may get in the way: Some of the most well-recognized and well-known brands are the worst culprits that load up their kibble with questionable ingredients. These are usually the brands you'll see stacked up in the supermarket or pet supply stores and in the spotlight in TV commercials. And, it's easy to confuse 'popular' with 'good'.

What to do: Research the food that you give to your Doodle; you'll want to feel confident every time you fill up their bowl that you're offering wholesome, healthy food.

Care Tip #2: Choose healthy snacks as well

Most dogs will receive a portion of their nutrition via snacks; depending on the Doodle, this can vary from 10 to 25% of their daily intake. So, choosing the right treats is vital as well.

Many manufactured treats contain harmful chemicals that can cause allergies including itching, some such as raw hide pose risks including choking and internal blockage, and others offer nothing of value to the body.

Issues that may get in the way: The makers of treats know what to do to sell; they offer tempting-sounding tidbits with cheerful colors in fun shapes. And in many cases, a Doodle may gobble these right up, which leads owners to assume that all is well, when in fact the snack is detrimental to their health.

What to do: Find the right balance of both wholesome foods: raw carrots, blueberries & raspberries (many Doodle love these frozen), banana slices, strawberries, apple slices (no core or seeds) and commercial treats that are 100% all-natural. Dry treats should be given to tide the appetite over in between meals and soft chewy treats should be given for reward (training or to reinforce good behavior).

Look for those both sourced and made in the USA, Canada, or New Zealand (which has stringent pet food laws).

A good example of healthy dry treats is Wellness Natural Grain-Free Wellbars which can be found in delicious flavors including yogurt, apples & banana, whitefish & sweet potato, and chicken & cheddar.

And a good example of chewy training treats is Fruitables Skinny Minis Pumpkin & Mango . These are only 3 calories a piece, so you can dole them out as rewards all throughout the day as needed and they won't interfere with a Doodle’s appetite.

Care Tip #3: Assess the Water that Your Doodle Drinks. 

There 2 elements to be aware of here: How much your Doodle is taking in and the quality of the water.
#1Adequate intake - Many dogs have trouble self-regulating and simply do not drink enough. Even a 3% drop in body water levels can cause slight dehydration that results in loss of focus, headaches and/or agitation.
Though much depends on a dog’s activity level, age, health status and the weather, in general a dog needs a minimum of 8 oz. (1 cup) for each 10 pounds of body weight. This can double during the summer if a dog is very active outside.

For example, a 5 lb. toy Doodle needs at least 4 oz. (1/2 cup) per day, and up to (8 oz.) 1 cup in the summer.
A 15 lb. miniature Doodle needs at least (12 oz.) 1.5 cups per day, and up to (24 oz.) 3 cups in the summer.
A 60 lb. standard Doodle needs at least (48 oz.) 6 cups per day, and up to (96 oz.) 12 cups in the summer.

What to do: Encourage your Doodle to drink by leading them to their water dish. Many dogs drink much more when given a canine water fountain; the noise and the motion attracts them to it. Bring along water whenever you go for a walk, taking a break at the halfway point to re-hydrate. Keep the water bowl clean and completely refill it (not just top it off) regularly to keep it free from food bits and nice and cool.
The other issue is the quality of the water and if you are giving your Doodle unfiltered tap water, you’ll want to reconsider. Most tap water is filled with dangerous toxins, carcinogens, and chemicals.
A few examples:

• Perchlorate is a chemical that prevents the thyroid from absorbing iodine (a process that is needed for brain development); the EPA has found perchlorate in 45 US states (affecting 16 million Americans).

• Chromium-6, a known carcinogen is in the drinking water of over 200 million Americans.

• Fluoride which is currently found in 61% of US tap water is exceedingly toxic to dogs (and also proven to be unsafe for humans) and is linked to bone loss and deformities, kidney disease, hormone problems, cognitive damage, and osteosarcoma, which is the #1 cause of bone tumors in canines.

What to do: Never give your Doodle unfiltered tap water. Options are to connect a filter to your kitchen tap, have a filtering system installed, offer bottled spring water, or use a device like the Aquagear Water Filter Pitcher which effectively filters out just about every known toxin as the water is being poured.

Care Tip #4: Choose The Right Bowl

The type of bowl you choose for your Doodle is important for several reasons.

Material: Steer clear of plastic bowls; even those that are BPA free can cause a wide range of problems. Plastic bowls can cause a dog’s nose to become discolored, the color dyes can cause allergic reactions, the material nicks and scratches easily which can cause the bowls to harbor bacteria, and most are lightweight which causes them to slip around as a dog is trying to eat or drink.

Stainless steel bowls are best, and ceramic is a second option, though these can crack or break.

Size: You’ll want a bowl that is of appropriate size for your Doodle, in both diameter and depth, to offer a dish that makes eating easy for your puppy or dog.

Slow intake – With mini and standard Doodle, another risk for bloat is fast ingestion of food or water. Therefore, if your Doodle tends to eat or drink quickly, you’ll want to have a slow-feeder dish or place a portion pacer inside his bowl.

If you're looking for a great floor-level bowl set for your Doodle, the VivaGlory Stainless Steel Water and Food Bowl Set is ideal. There are two bowls, one for food and one for water, both are made of anti-corrosion and heat resistant stainless-steel and these are set into a very sturdy skid-resistant silicone mat that keeps the bowls in place and any spills from making a mess. As a bonus, these are available in 11 different colors and 3 sizes.

And, an effective and sturdy slow-feeder bowl for miniature and standard Doodle is the DuraPet Slow Feed Premium Stainless Steel Bowl which comes in 3 different sizes.

Care Tip #5: Safety 

Many injuries and health emergencies can be avoided by routinely following care guidelines for safety. Of top concern is a dog ingesting non-food objects (leading to choking, internal blockage, or poisoning) and injury via falls or being tripped over.
Why this may not be done: Owners may have safety at the top of their mind when first bringing home a new puppy, but then phase out of this, assuming that the dog has learned to stay way from dangerous elements. It is important to note that most dogs do not mouth objects with the intention of ingesting them. They mouth things to find out what they are, to chew them, or simply out of boredom.
In regard to injury, you may be surprised to learn that a study on the mortality of dogs done over the course of 20 years shows the top leading cause of death for puppies (all breeds) is trauma.
And for adults Doodle, trauma is the 3rd leading cause of death for both standard and miniature Poodles (10.1% and 10.8%, respectively) and the 2nd leading cause of death for toys (11.7%).
Yet, so much of this can be avoided.

What to do when you bring your Doodle Puppy home:

#1 Puppy-proof the house, regularly, no matter how old your Doodle is. Always be on the lookout for items that may have fallen to the floor, check right under furniture (where a dog’s paw could swipe something out) and use cord concealer for any electrical cords that may be accessible.

#2. Use gates to block off any steps or other areas that may be dangerous. This is particularly relevant with puppies and with older, senior Doodle that may have trouble navigating around the house.

#3 Use child-proof locks on lower cabinets. There are cases of dogs getting into cabinets and chewing on/ingesting everything from feminine hygiene products to Band-Aids

#4 Never let your Doodle off leash, unless they are in an area such as an enclosed yard under supervision, a gated dog park, or other area in which you are sure that there is no chance that your Doodle can run off.

#5 Part of ‘death by trauma’ involves injuries received as a passenger in the car; we address this next.

Care Tip #6: Use a Car Seat or Restraint

As we touched on above, trauma is a serious issue to be aware of. Keeping your Doodle properly seated when in the car is vital.
Car accidents happen more than you may think. In the U.S., there are over 100 deaths PER DAY from car accidents. This is over 37,000 per year. And in regard to injuries, 2.35 million people are injured each year. Globally, there are 3,287 deaths from vehicular accidents PER DAY.
Dogs are not being kept safe; A joint study by AAA and Kurgo Pet Products found that 52% of pet owner drivers routinely have their pet with them in the car, but only 16% used a proper safety restraint.

How dangerous can it be if you don’t follow this care tip? Here’s some examples of crash force:

• Crashing at 20 MPH, an unrestrained 10 lb. dog will suffer a 200 lb. crash force.

• At 40 MPH, an unrestrained 30 lb. dog will suffer a 1,200 lb. crash force.

• At 50 MPH, an unrestrained 40 lb. dog will suffer a 2,000 lb. crash force.

What to do: Make sure that every time your Doodle is a passenger in your car, you have them properly restrained.

Toy Doodles, many miniature Doodles, and standard puppies (dogs 20 lbs. and under) do best and are safest when in a booster canine car seat. Being raised can help tremendously with car sickness since it gives line-of-sight out the windows and keeps a dog up high near the air flow coming from the window. One of the best raised car seats for Doodles is the Kurgo Skybox Car Booster Seat . Note that with this and all other types of booster seats, the inner buckle is meant to be attached to a dog's harness, not collar.

Adult standard Doodles and any dog over 20 to 30 lbs. typically do best with a car restraint belt. You may wish to opt for a ‘direct to tether’ accessory which connects from your Doodle’s harness to your car’s seat belt. These are very easy to use and you can leave the attachment clicked in, so that it only takes 3 seconds to secure this. Another option is a harness & connector all-in-one like the SlowTon Dog Multifunction Car Harness with Connector Strap which is both the harness and the short belt that connects that to the car’s seat belt.

Care Tip #7: Proper Exercise 

Making sure that your Doodle receives enough exercise is vital to overall good health and is a step that can help increase life span.
Physically, exercise keeps the heart healthy, works to maintain muscle tone and can reduce the risk of developing several diseases including canine diabetes and even some cancers.
Psychologically, exercise helps a dog release pent-up energy and often leads to better behavior.
Socially, bringing a dog outside helps them to learn tolerance of outdoor elements which leads to being better socialized and accepting of triggers such as other dogs, children, and such things as traffic.
Doodles, of all varieties, should ideally have two walks per day, lasting from 20 to 30 minutes. Add in a daily cardio session; fetch is always a great choice.
Issues that may get in the way: It’s easy to assume that a small dog that stays busy inside does not need long walks; however, moving about in the house is not the same as purposeful walking. In addition, for all sized Doodles, time and weather play a role in how often owners follow through with walking their dogs.

What to do: Plan an exercise schedule for your Doodle and stick with it, having it be one of your top priorities. This may involve waking up a bit earlier and/or delegating tasks to other family members. Prepare for less-than-ideal weather by having some key clothing pieces for your Doodle such as a warm vest or sweater on cold days.

Year-round, protect your dog’s paws with a quality paw wax like Musher's Secret Pet Paw Protection Wax . In the winter, this will help prevent snowballing (tiny ice or snow pebbles that get wedged between toes or paw pads, causing discomfort), adds traction, and adds a layer of protection from sand, salt, ice melt chemicals and freezing surfaces. In the summer, a good wax will help protect from sizzling hot pavement and help the paws retain proper moisture.

Keep the pace brisk; your Doodle should be trotting along, not moseying down the road.
Schedule at a daily cardio workout as well, ideally out in a yard where your Doodle is able to run; but even holding this session inside when the weather is bad is better than letting your Doodle remain sedentary.
Your enthusiasm will play a bit role in this, as will having fun throw toys that interest your puppy or dog. For puppies of all Doodle varieties and for toy Doodles, Zanies Mini Tennis Balls can make fetch really fun.

And for adults of all varieties, the Chuckit! Flying Squirrel is always a blast and comes in 3 sizes. Note that this also can be found as a fuzzy indoor fetch toy as well.

Care Tip #8: Annual Vet Visits

Wellness checks are an important part of care. Just like humans should have annual health exams, so should our pets. For senior Doodles, twice-per-year geriatric check-ups are needed.
There is a vast array of health issues that when caught early are exceedingly easier and less costly to treat.
The vet will perform a complete examination of the body, listen to the heart and lungs and screening will be done (urinalysis, stool sample, blood tests) to rule out common issues that do occur with dogs.
These are all important aspects of a checkup that can find issues before a dog is so ill that clinical signs are obvious.
Issues that may get in the way: The two main reasons that owners skip this are cost and denial.
What to do: Just as you budget for other ‘must haves’, so should you for this. The average cost of the initial exam is between $50 to $70. Testing may run between $100 and $200.

With the high end of this estimate being $270, you may want to round up to $300. When broken down, this equals $25 a month. You may want to consider trying to save double this, putting away $50 a month, to cover unexpected treatments, including medication.

Care Tip #9: Dental Hygiene

Doodles tend to have tooth problems; this ranges from decay to tooth loss, so making a concerted effort to care for your Poodle’s teeth goes a long way both his overall health and his quality of life.

Just like humans, plaque is constantly being formed. Without removal, this hardens on the teeth (tartar) and travels under the gum line.

It often leads to decay, gingivitis, infection (which not only can be exceedingly painful for a dog, but also can travel up into the sinuses or even to vital organs) and eventual tooth loss which can cause major problems for older dogs.

Roadblocks: Far too many owners assume that a dog does not need any care given to his teeth and that chewing on toys or hard kibble is enough. It’s not. Implementing at-home and professional dental care can add years to a dog’s life.

What to do: There are some very effective things you can do to take better care of your Foodle's teeth.

#1 Scrub the teeth. One of the most surefire methods of removing plaque is to regularly scrub your Doodle's teeth. You may assume that your puppy or dog won't let you do this. However, many Doodles tolerate this just fine and especially if they are able to get used to it by having it done every day and not just randomly.

To make this as efficient as possible, consider using a triple-sided toothbrush which scrubs all the top and both sides of the teeth in one swipe. Along with this, use a paste specifically formulated for canines. Human toothpaste which has fluoride is toxic to dogs and soaping agents that are not meant to be swallowed.

A recommended brush and paste for Doodles is Vet’s Best Dog Toothbrush and Enzymatic Toothpaste Set .

#2 Use a dental spray. If you are unable to brush your Poodle's teeth or if you want to implement this as a extra step to try and prevent tooth decay, there are some sprays that can loosen and remove plaque to a certain extent. One is Nylabone Advanced Oral Care Tartar Remover for Dogs and this works best if it's used twice a day, once in the morning and once at night.

#3 Give your Doodle a daily dental treat. The right type of dental treat can be a excellent supplementary method to help remove plaque and keep a dog's teeth clean and healthy. These work via their shape, texture, and consistency. The most popular and effective dental treat is GREENIES Natural Dog Dental Treats which can be found in 5 sizes ranging from Teenie to Large. There is the original formula, as well as grain-free and weight management.

#4 Professional cleanings are important as well. During your Doodle’s annual wellness check, the veterinarian will inspect the teeth, looking for signs of decay, and assessing any buildup. X-rays may be taken to spot decay that could be under the gum line. The teeth will be scraped and flushed. Note that this sort of dental exam is done with light sedation; speak to your vet about pre-sedation screening and monitoring your Doodle's blood pressure during sedation which can greatly reduce any risks.

Care Tip #10: NuVet Plus® supplements for Health

NuVet Plus® is a synergistic combination of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants known to boost immune system function. All the ingredients are sourced in the United States and cold processed in order to maximize the potency and bioavailability of the nutrients. By including NuVet Plus® into the diet of puppies at the time of weaning, you can be confident that you are providing the nutrients required for optimal immune system performance.

Whole life immune support and skin and coat support

• Internally it also helps support:

o Healthy bones and teeth

o Healthy eyes and ears

o Healthy brain and nervous system

o Healthy cardiovascular and heart functioning

o Healthy kidney and liver functioning

o Healthy digestive system

o Improved energy levels 

NuVet® has been making the finest nutritional pet supplements since 1997. Their mission is to provide your pet with products that are completely safe, nutrient-rich and formulated to strengthen the immune system and give your pet many healthy years of life.

How do you house train your puppy?

While housebreaking a puppy may feel like a huge obstacle that is time-consuming at best and an undertaking that may fail at worst, there are definitely things that you can do to set your doodle puppy up for success for potty training.

There are 2 main elements:

• Having a clear plan in mind that will encourage a pup to learn quickly

• Having reasonable expectations based on the age of your doodle

In this section, we will go over all of the important steps for effective and fast training.

At what age do you begin to House Train your doodle puppy?

This is most certainly not something that you will want to put off. Whether you have a brand-new STOKESHIRE doodle puppy or an older, adopted dog that needs to learn, it is best to begin right away. Every day that this is not taught, is another day that the dog has wrong information about what to do and this just in and of itself will make housebreaking harder. Keep in mind that new puppies should not be brought outside to public areas or even your yard (if there is a chance that other dogs have been there) until the full rounds of puppy vaccinations are complete. Each vet schedule is slightly different; however, in general this is done by about the 4-month mark. If you are not sure, check with your vet

Having a Housebreaking Plan

It's not uncommon for a puppy to pee or has a bowel movement with very little warning. And without a plan in place, this is when you'll see owners scrambling and picking up the pup while he dribbles urine as he's being carried out the door. While you will not catch every accident, you really will have much better success when you (and all members of the family) have a clear potty training plan in place. We would suggest reviewing what is needed, obtaining all of the necessities to be properly prepped, and then beginning.

What is Needed Before You Begin training your puppy?

There are a few things that you will need in order for housebreaking to be successful:

#1 A supervision method.
This is vital. Puppies or dogs that have free rein in the house will be exceptionally hard to train.

When you are home and are able to have your doodle right by your side, use the tethering method. This means that your doodle will be wearing a harness (not a collar, since this can cause neck injury) and will be on a leash. The leash should be short and it should have a soft-looped handle so that you can weave this through your belt loop or slip it over your wrist.

When you are not home, or if you are home but cannot keep your doodle near you, you'll need to keep your puppy or dog in a defined, secure area.

• Crates are not recommended; these are terribly confining and can cause a dog to feel both physically and emotionally stressed. Furthermore, they do not help with housebreaking; a dog will pee and poo when they need to.

• Gating off an entire room is also not recommended. This is too large of an area to do really do anything, and therefore there will still be pee and poo everywhere.

• One of the best methods is to use an indoor canine playpen. These are sturdy, open-top pens that allow a doodle to move around, play, have all his favorite belongings (food, water, toys, bed), but also keep messes contained.
  
  

As a side note, these are great for separation anxiety, as they offer a secure 'den' that keeps all of a doodle's aids right by them. And, these are perfect for the teething phase to keep a doodle puppy from chewing apart the house.

Recommended playpens to help with house training are below. These can be found with or without doors, and range from 24" (ideal for toy and miniature doodles) to 48" (better for standards, especially if continued to be used as the puppy grows).

Our Top Pick for Playpens

BestPET

#2 The Right Type of Training Treats
Puppies, and dogs of all ages, learn best when they have reason and motivation to perform any certain action. Giving a doodle incentive to do something applies to potty training, perhaps, more than it does with any other single action.
Once something is a learned behavior, it becomes automatic (though it is still nice to reinforce good behavior now and again).
For housebreaking to happen quickly, you need to 1) give super-happy praise and simultaneously 2) offer the right type of reward.

The training treat should be:
New - It should not be something that you give to your doodle for regular snacks. If you've found a great, all-natural and healthy snack that you'd like to keep giving, see if it comes in a different flavor.
Small - House training treats need to be small. A puppy needs immediate satisfaction, and you cannot achieve this with something that a dog needs to sit down to chew on.
Extra flavorful - It should be appealing to a doodle sense of smell and sense of taste, offering a burst of flavor that will encourage the desire for more. And 'more' can only happen when the doodle goes to the bathroom in the right area.

Below are our top recommended training treats. These are all 100% all-natural, have no artificial coloring, flavoring, or preservatives, are properly sized, and are made in the USA.

• Zuke's Mini Naturals Training Dog Treats Chicken Recipe - 16 Oz. Bag

• Wellness Natural Pet Food Grain-Free Crunchy Puppy Bites Chicken & Carrot

• Old Mother Hubbard Classic Original Assortment Biscuits Baked Dog Treats,

10 House Training Tips for Success 

There are several things that will help you housebreak your doodle fairly quickly. We use some of these methods in our STOKESHIRE DOODLE SCHOOL PROGRAM in the first 4-Weeks.

1) Establish a designated area. Dogs that are simply brought 'outside' for bathroom needs rarely have a good, clear understanding of what is expected. If they are out there long enough, they may very well go to the bathroom. However, your goal should be going above this and instilling the full concept of having one area for urination and elimination needs.
Choose the area wisely; what may seem like a great spot in the summer may not work well in the winter. The bathroom area should be close to the home, not a spot that is used for anything else (play area, gardening, etc.), and if possible, one without distractions (such as traffic, neighbors, etc.)
Within the chosen area, allow your doodle to choose the exact spot that he prefers. Dogs that have a choice learn much faster and are more eager to follow the rules. It is best to stand in the middle of the area with your puppy on a 6 to an 8-foot leash. Allow him to circle around and, sniff. Some will then need time for the bladder to relax or for the bowel muscles to push out stool.

2) Be ready at all times. Since young puppies have weak bladder and bowel muscles, they can often pee or poo with very little warning. Whatever you need in order to bring your doodle outside should be ready at the exit door.
This will include a pair of shoes, an appropriate coat or jacket depending on the weather, clothing for your doodle - should there be a need, an umbrella in case it is raining, a leash, and even a book or magazine to thumb through while you wait.

3) Bring your Puppy outside often enough. For the times that you are home, you will want to bring your doodle to the designated area at the following times:

• First thing in the morning

• Any time right after the puppy wakes up from a nap

• Every 2 hours for a 2-month-old, every 3 hours for a 3-month-old, every 4 hours for a 4-month-old, etc.

• 20 minutes after a full meal

• 20 minutes before bedtime
  

4) Give rewards for housebreaking success but do not scold for accidents. It would certainly make things easier if dogs understood what we were saying when we spoke full sentences after they did something that we didn't approve of. However, puppies that are rewarded for good deeds and quietly forgiven for accidents are able to pick up what the owner wishes for without any scolding.

Please remember that you want your doodle to respect you, not fear you. And while it may feel good to release a bit of steam if you find a puddle of pee, yelling or acting frustrated will only confuse and stress a puppy that really has no idea why you are upset.

5) Choose one dedicated phrase. Dogs learn best when they can associate a word with an action. So, you'll want everyone in the house to be in agreement as to which word(s) will be used for housebreaking. It's best to keep it short, and have it be something that you do not feel uncomfortable saying in public.

'Pitty-potty', 'Pee-poo', 'Get busy', and 'Go potty' are all effective and commonly used phrases.

You will use this as you head outside 'Do you need to go potty?', while you're doodle is going to the bathroom, 'Oh, you're going potty!', and immediately when your doodle is done while palming over the reward, 'Good potty, good dog!'

6) Give your doodle enough time. While some puppies will instantly pee or poo, others need time. Owners that only give the pup only a few minutes may have trouble with the training.

Since 5 minutes can feel like 20 if you are bored, cold or otherwise uncomfortable or antsy, plan ahead. Have an outdoor chair located right in the middle of the bathroom area and plan ahead to check your mail (or email) during these times. It is recommended to give the puppy a good 15 minutes and if you just know that a bowel movement is due, give it 20.

While on this note, one of the biggest problems that owners encounter is when a puppy won't pee in his spot no matter how long there, but will pee as soon as being brought back inside. A good tip to fix this, should it happen often, is hold him after you come back inside (he won't pee on you); then head back out in about 10 minutes.

7) Help the puppy's muscles grow stronger. While young doodles need to be taken out often (see above), if they are kept on that schedule as they mature, they will not have an opportunity to learn to hold their needs and bladder and bowel muscles will not strengthen as they otherwise would. As you puppy grows older, stretch out the periods of time in between taking him out.

8) Clean accidents properly. While the carpet may look clean after you scrub it with dish soap and a sturdy brush, soap does not eliminate enzymes that are in urine. And those lingering enzymes (you won't smell these, but your doodle will) essentially scream 'This is the bathroom area!'.
So, all areas that have been pee'd or poo'd on need to be cleaned with an enzyme cleanser. A good one to use is Sunny and Honey's Pet Stain & Odor Miracle Enzyme Cleaner; this is very effective and works on all types of flooring including hardwood, tile, and carpeting.

9) Know when to respond at night. Puppies are terrific at making whining noises and barking in the middle of the night, without letting us know if they need to go to the bathroom or are just bored and wanting some attention.

If a puppy pees and poos before bedtime, it is far more likely that he wants your company as opposed to having a real need. However, it is always best to be safe than sorry.

The important element is that this is done in a very serious manner without any play or other interaction.

Keep lights low, bring your doodle puppy directly to his spot, wait the allotted time without speaking (other than praise if the deed is done) and then bring him right back. A puppy will soon learn that barking for attention at night does not bring about any interaction that would seem worthy of making a fuss but that alerting you in regard to bathroom needs does result in praise and a quick treat.

10) Bathroom needs should come before walks. It's a common occurrence for owners to bring their doodle for a walk in the neighborhood and just let the puppy go to the bathroom along the way. However, this is a missed opportunity for a house training lesson. Bring your doodle to his spot first and then bring him for his exercise.

Housebreaking Steps for your doodle puppy

This is exactly how to bring your doodle out, what to say, and what to do:
1. Head outside with your doodle on leash and harness, saying your chosen phrase (Let's go potty), and with the training treats in a small zipped plastic bag, kept in your pocket.
2. Lead your doodle directly to the designated bathroom area, repeating the phrase.
3. Stand in the middle of the designated area, allowing your doodle to roam within the diameter and sniff around. Allow 10 to 15 minutes.
4. If your doodle pees or poos, without completely distracting your pup, mark the action with your chosen word said in a happy tone, (You're going potty). During this time, be reaching for the training treat.
5. As soon as your doodle is done, bend to his level, give great praise in a super-enthusiastic voice (Good potty, oh, you are such a good dog!) while palming the treat for your doodle to sniff and mouth.
6. If your doodle had a bowel movement, and you believe that there may be a urination need, remain outside for an additional 5 minutes.

Dog Harness Sizing Chart

Girth is the measurement of your dog's chest, the area of his body immediately behind his front legs. To measure for girth, get your dog up on his feet and wrap a tape measure around the broadest part of his chest. Use the measurements below to help you choose the right harness. (1 lb = .45 kg)

X SMALL (5-10 lbs.
SMALL (10-25 lbs.)
MEDIUM (Up to 55 lbs.)
LARGE (Up to 75 lbs.)
X-LARGE (75+ lbs.)

how do you stop your puppy from digging?

To discourage a puppy from digging holes in your yard, you can try the following approaches:

1. Supervision: Keep an eye on your puppy whenever they are outside in the yard. If you notice them starting to dig, redirect their attention to a more appropriate activity, such as playing with a toy or going for a walk.

2. Designated digging area: Set up a specific spot in the yard where it's acceptable for the puppy to dig. Bury toys or treats in that area to encourage them to dig there instead of elsewhere. Use positive reinforcement and praise when they dig in the designated area.

3. Physical barriers: If certain areas of your yard are particularly vulnerable to digging, consider using barriers like fences, rocks, or planters to prevent access to those areas. This can help limit the puppy's options and discourage digging.

4. Environmental deterrents: Some dogs are deterred by certain smells or textures. You can try sprinkling citrus peels, cayenne pepper, or a commercial dog repellent around areas where the puppy tends to dig. Alternatively, you can place rocks or chicken wire over the soil to make it less appealing for digging.

5. Exercise and mental stimulation: Puppies often dig out of boredom or excess energy. Make sure your puppy is getting enough physical exercise and mental stimulation through walks, playtime, and interactive toys. A tired and engaged puppy is less likely to resort to digging.

6. Consistent training: Teach your puppy the "leave it" or "no dig" command. Whenever they start digging in an undesirable area, firmly say the command and redirect them to a more appropriate activity. Reward and praise them when they comply.

Remember that patience and consistency are key when training a puppy. It may take time for them to understand what behavior is expected of them. Be sure to provide plenty of positive reinforcement when they choose not to dig or use the designated digging area.

Dogs dig holes for various reasons, and it can be a natural behavior rooted in their instincts. Here are some common reasons why dogs may dig holes:

1. Instinctual behavior: Dogs are descendants of wolves, and digging is a natural behavior for them. In the wild, dogs and wolves dig to create dens, search for prey, or hide food. Some dogs may have a stronger instinct to dig than others.

2. Boredom or excess energy: Dogs that are bored or have pent-up energy may resort to digging as a way to entertain themselves or release their energy. Digging can be a stimulating activity for them.

3. Seeking comfort or coolness: Dogs may dig holes to create a cool spot to lie in during hot weather. The soil can provide some relief from the heat, or they may be trying to find a more comfortable spot to rest.

4. Escape attempts: If a dog is feeling anxious, stressed, or confined, they may dig in an attempt to escape their environment. This can be a sign of separation anxiety or a desire to explore beyond their boundaries.

5. Hunting or prey drive: Some dogs have a strong prey drive and may dig in an attempt to catch small animals like rodents or insects that are underground.

6. Hiding objects: Dogs may dig holes to bury toys, bones, or other treasures they want to keep for later. This behavior is similar to how wolves would hide their food in the wild.

It's important to note that the underlying cause of digging can vary from dog to dog. Understanding the specific reason behind your dog's digging behavior can help you address it more effectively and provide appropriate solutions or alternatives.

We are thrilled to announce our exciting partnership with Baxter & Bella, offering an exceptional puppy training program for our valued puppy buyers.

With great dedication, we have laid the foundation for your puppy's journey. Baxter & Bella's Online Puppy School ensures a smooth transition from our home to yours, empowering you with the knowledge and skills to train and interact with your puppy effectively. The program not only equips you with the tools for success but also instills remarkable manners and behaviors in your furry friend. To make the most of this opportunity, we recommend signing up right away, as completing the first two units before your puppy arrives is highly beneficial. Amy, the expert trainer, assists you in setting up your home, aligning your family's approach, and guiding you on the optimal steps to take as soon as your puppy enters your life, ensuring a successful training journey. Please note that participation in this program is mandatory for all Doodle School attendees.

To enjoy an instant 25% discount, don't forget to use the discount code STOKESHIRE25 during the checkout process!

FAQ

What should I do with my doodle puppy

During the first few weeks, your puppy is going to grow and learn a TON! He or she is also going to need to rest, so take in all the snuggles you can muster. Who doesn’t love puppy snuggles and kisses? In the meantime, work on manding and some of these simple commands. Once you have mastered these, you will be able to take your Doodle on all sorts of adventures!

Here is a sample daily routine for a puppy:

1. Morning wake-up: As soon as your puppy wakes up, take them outside to go potty. This should be the first thing you do in the morning.

2. Breakfast time: After your puppy has relieved themselves, it's time for breakfast. Give them their morning meal and make sure they have access to fresh water.

3. Playtime: After breakfast, spend some time playing with your puppy. This can include activities such as fetch, tug-of-war, or training sessions.

4. Nap time: Puppies, like all young animals, need plenty of rest. After a morning of play, allow your puppy to take a nap.

5. Lunchtime: It's time for your puppy's mid-day meal. Make sure they have access to fresh water as well.

6. Training and exercise: In the afternoon, spend some time working on training and exercising your puppy. This can include activities such as obedience training, agility training, or long walks.

7. Dinner time: In the evening, it's time for your puppy's dinner. Make sure they have access to fresh water.

8. Playtime and bonding: After dinner, spend some time playing with and bonding with your puppy. This can include activities such as cuddling, grooming, or reading a book together.

9. Bedtime routine: As bedtime approaches, take your puppy outside for one last potty break. Then, put them in their crate or designated sleeping area for the night.

Remember, this is just a sample routine and every puppy is different. You may need to adjust the schedule to meet the needs of your individual puppy. It's important to be consistent with your routine and to stick to it as closely as possible to help your puppy learn and establish good habits.

how do i solve behavior problems for my doodle?

We understand that Puppies are not always going to behave exactly as we would like. Somethings they find things that taste better than their food, like the garbage or our favorite pair of Birkenstock Sandals. Or they simply will not stop barking at the mailman or wanting to sexually harass our friends when they come to visit. We get it! So what do you do to curb the behavior? They’re not like toddlers where you can simply redirect and use a scolding tone. Removing a shoe and replacing it with an appropriate chew toy and using a stern NO! is part of the solution it may not be the end-all, fix all for ongoing negative behaviors like digging, excessive barking, jumping, humping, and the like.

So, if any of this is a big deterrent for you, we have some first-start solutions to get you and your pup off on the right feet/paws starting with the STOKESHIRE DOODLE SCHOOL and our partnership with Baxter and Bella! We encourage you to check those two options out if you have a reservation or if you’re stuck in knowing what to do next!

We offer support for our puppy clients! Please feel free to reach out to us. We are here to help!

WE ARE VERY EXCITED TO PARTNER WITH BAXTER & BELLA TO PROVIDE OUR PUPPY BUYERS WITH AN AMAZING PUPPY TRAINING PROGRAM AFTER YOU TAKE YOUR PUPPY HOME.

We have worked very hard to start your puppy off on the right paw! Baxter & Bella’s Online Puppy School provides a seamless transition from our home to yours by educating you on how to train and interact with your puppy to get the best possible results. Not only will you learn the skills you need to be successful, but your puppy will learn incredible manners and behaviors as well! The program is set up for you to complete the first two units BEFORE your puppy comes home so we recommend signing up right away. Amy helps you set up your home, get your family all on the same page, and teaches you exactly what to do the second your puppy arrives for optimal training success. This is required for all Doodle School participants.

IN ORDER TO SAVE 25% INSTANTLY, REMEMBER TO USE DISCOUNT CODE STOKESHIRE25 AT CHECKOUT!

INSURANCE

At Stokeshire, all of our puppies come with 1 month of Trupanion Coverage. Which you must activate as the owner. If you choose to have your puppy stay beyond the 4 weeks, additional coverage is required for Stokeshire Doodle School. You are free to continue your coverage or select new or additional coverage as you wish. We will work directly with you on your selected vaccination plan. We recommend connecting with a local vet from your area to determine are care plan that works for you. We work directly with the Medford Vet Clinic to meet your vaccination needs on location.

how do you travel with doodles

Many trips aren’t complete without the company of a good friend — someone who can join you at an exotic locale or on an adventurous road trip. The perfect vacation partner doesn’t have to be another human being, though. Traveling with your favorite canine friend can allow the two of you to bond while away from home.

Many dog owners admit feeling sad when having to leave their pet at home. Rather than drop your dog off at the sitter’s and jet to the airport, consider bringing them along for the ride. Humans aren’t the only ones who can benefit from a new environment. New sights, exciting smells, and unknown terrains to explore can intrigue your pup.

Before you hit the road or enter the skies, it’s important to make sure your dog is prepared for the trip. Simple things, such as making sure your dog responds to their name and having an updated ID for them, will help ensure their safety. Check out the graphic below for more tips.Pet Travel with a doodle puppy can take some pre-planning. Your new puppy is just so cute, a little bundle of fur and endless energy. You want to take your puppy everywhere – to work, to visit friends and relatives. You are even thinking that, instead of leaving him or her home in a kennel, you will take him along on your next vacation trip.

Vaccinations

At the very least, your puppy needs to have had his puppy shots prior to travel. If you are traveling by air, you may need to wait until he is old enough to be vaccinated for rabies, generally about 3-4 months of age.

Travel by Car

A puppy’s boundless energy is great in the back yard, but may not be so great in the car. It is simply not safe for the driver to have puppy on their lap or bouncing around without restraint as it could be very distracting. You also need to think about your puppy’s safety as well. In case of a sudden stop, your puppy could be seriously injured. Your best bet is to let your puppy travel in a well ventilated pet crate or secure him in a puppy harness. Not only is it safer but in some states it is the law.

It’s best not to feed your puppy right before a trip as a full stomach may aggravate motion sickness. You may want to consider an all natural pet calmer. We like CBD gummies. You also want to have a supply of water with a travel bowl that does not spill.

A mature dog can travel for six or 8 hours but a puppy needs a “rest stop” every 2 to 3 hours. As tempting as it may be, do not take them out of the car without a lead attached. A squirming puppy can easily wriggle its way out of your arms and be off like a shot.

Travel by Air

Your puppy may be small enough to fit in an airline compliant carrier and go under the seat in front of you. You need to get a sturdy carrier large enough for your puppy to stand up and turn around in and it must have ample ventilation. Most importantly, don’t forget plenty of quality made pads for the bottom of the carrier for those little squirts and squats.

Your puppy will need a health certificate completed by your veterinarian within 10 days of travel, and maybe a little all natural relaxer to calm them down. No food or water right before your flight, but it’s okay to let puppy lick some water off your fingers during the flight. You can do this by unzipping the top of the bag just a little so you can fit your hand snugly inside. Do not take your puppy out of the carrier during the flight. As much as you would like to show them off, it is simply too easy for your pet to get loose in the plane and bother other passengers.

If puppy is more than 15 pounds, then it will likely need to travel as checked baggage in a special section of cargo where the temperature and pressure is the same as the passenger cabin. Now you will need an IATA compliant pet crate to transport your puppy.

International Travel

Each country’s rules are different, but they all require that your puppy be vaccinated for rabies at least 30 days prior to the travel date. This means your puppy is going to be at least 4 months old before they visit most any country in the world.

Also consider a pet microchip if your puppy is not already microchipped. Many countries around the world require a 15 digit ISO microchip for identification. Have the microchip number engraved on your puppy’s collar tags as well as your cell phone number.

No matter how you travel, bring along your puppy’s food. Now is not the time to change their diet as it may cause digestion problems. Other handy item are wipes for accidents, familiar chew toys, portable water bowl, and a t-shirt or sock with your scent on it. The clothing will go in the carrier or crate with your puppy and provide security.

If you are staying in a hotel and your puppy is crated at night at home, try to stay consistent. If you did not bring your pet’s crate with you, ask at the desk. If they do not have one, try putting your puppy in the carrier at night. Pets like confinement, especially in strange environments.

Before you leave, have a friend take a picture of you and your puppy with your cell phone. Having a picture of you together will help officials identify you as the owner should your puppy get lost and picked up by the local dog catcher.

Does traveling with your pet seem like a lot of work? It’s well worth it when you and your new puppy are strolling down a street and every passer by stops to make a fuss over your puppy. The attention is great for your pup as the sooner you socialize your pet, the more fun your future trips together will be.

Checklist of Doodle Puppy Travel

• Vaccinations

• Health Certificate

• Pet Microchip

• Pet Restraint device for car travel

• In-cabin pet carrier or IATA compliant pet crate for air or car travel

• Pee clean-up pads for accidents

• Well made collar and lead with collar tags engraved with your cell phone number

• Portable Water Bowl

• All Natural Pet Calmer (opt)

• Pet Wipes

• Chews

• Pet Food

• Old T-Shirt or Sock

• Picture of your puppy

Pet first aid supplies checklist

As a pet owner, you need to make sure to have basic first aid supplies for your pets in your household. Carefully putting together a well-provisioned first aid kit will make you more ready to deal with a medical emergency if one confronts you for your dog, cat or other pet. Have this kit in the house and fully stocked with supplies at all times, next to the first aid kit for your family. Many of the items in a family first aid kit can be used for pets, too.

• Phone numbers and your pet's medical record (including medications and vaccination history)

• Veterinarian: Add your Vet’s number to your phone.

• Animal Poison Control Center:
  888-4ANI-HELP (888-426-4435)
  (there may be a fee for this call) Know these numbers before you need them. If you do not know the number of the emergency clinic in your area, ask your veterinarian or go to the Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Society Web site for a searchable list of emergency clinics by state or visit MyVeterinarian.com, enter the zip code, and check the "emergency" box to get a listing of emergency providers in the area.

• Gauze: For wrapping wounds or muzzling the injured animal

• Nonstick bandages, towels, or strips of clean clothTo control bleeding or protect wounds

• Adhesive tape for bandages: *do NOT use human adhesive bandages (eg, Band-Aids®) on pets For securing the gauze wrap or bandage

• Activated charcoal: to absorb poison

• Hydrogen peroxide: (3%) To induce vomiting
  Always contact your veterinarian or local poison control center before inducing vomiting or treating an animal for poison

• Digital Thermometer: you will need a "fever" thermometer because the temperature scale of regular thermometers doesn't go high enough for petsTo check your pet's temperature. Do not insert a thermometer in your pet's mouth—the temperature must be taken rectally.

• Eye dropper: (or large syringe without needle)To give oral treatments or flush wounds

• Muzzle: (in an emergency a rope, necktie, soft cloth, nylon stocking, small towel may be used) To cover your pet's head. If your pet is vomiting, do not muzzle it!

• Leash: To transport your pet (if your pet is capable of walking without further injury)Stretcher (in an emergency a door, board, blanket or floor mat may be used) To stabilize the injured animal and prevent further injury during transport

Stages of puppy growth: Fear Period

The "fear period" in puppies refers to a time in their development when they may be more prone to experiencing fear and anxiety. This period typically occurs around the age of 8 to 16 weeks, and it is a normal part of the puppy's development. During this stage of development, they are extra cautious around new people and places, and it's a normal part of adapting to different environments. Avoid potentially traumatic or overwhelming experiences during this stage, and be sensitive to your doodle’s needs. During this time, puppies may be more sensitive to new experiences and may become fearful of things that they previously weren't afraid of. It is important for puppies to be exposed to a variety of people, places, and experiences during this time in order to help them become well-adjusted and confident adult dogs. However, it is also important to be mindful of the puppy's fear and anxiety and to proceed slowly and gently, providing plenty of positive reinforcement and support.

Dogs who experience stress or trauma at this age can experience larger, related behavioral problems or consequences later in life, so it’s important to be sensitive to training needs during this time. Fear periods are often misunderstood as puppies being defiant or difficult when they’re actually just being uncertain or worried about things in the world around them.

Even confident and well-socialized puppies go through a phase of being concerned about something that might seem silly to us. Just because we know that the vacuum cleaner turning on, a plastic bag blowing in the wind, or a wobble board at training class isn’t something dangerous, your puppy doesn’t have the same understanding of the world. Fear periods are a developmentally normal part of growing up for dogs and something for us to be thoughtful and intentional about preparing for.

If your puppy suddenly develops a fear about someone or something, it can be tempting to try and force your dog to get closer and see that it isn’t scary. But this approach is far more likely to backfire and create a bigger and possibly long-lasting fear. Instead of forcing your puppy to engage in things that scare them, give them the space to explore and choose to engage at their comfort level. Try to turn the scary situation into a positive learning opportunity.

Step-by-step

Step 1: Allow your puppy to move away from whatever they are scared of. No matter how embarrassing the behavior, it is critical that you do not overreact in response to your dog. Control their environment so they don’t feel they have to defend themselves. Keep in mind that this behavior is not a sign that your puppy has turned aggressive.  But rather he is unsure and needs to overcome his fear at his own pace.You must be patient during these periods and keep to a familiar routine.

Step 2: Praise and reward your puppy for looking to you for guidance, and for looking at the object that scared them. Control situations so that you can prevent a fearful response and show your puppy that you enjoy the situation. Use food treats and happy talk to encourage your puppy up to scary objects.  I have found touching the object myself, and then encouraging my puppy to touch it with a happy, nonchalant attitude, is the best approach. Never drag or force interaction with a scary object.

Step 3: Allow your puppy to control how close they get to what scared them and don’t pressure or lure them to get closer. Praise and reward with treats or toys as well as for any positive curiosity or interaction including looking at the object, stepping towards it, sniffing, etc. Do not force your puppy to interact with the feared object or person.  A 6-month-old puppy scared of strangers is not going to be convinced a stranger is friendly by force. That would be like me trying to convince you taxes are good by taking away all your money.A better approach is to allow your puppy to investigate whatever he fears on his own and praise/reward any initiative he or she takes.

Step 4: Keep the training session short and fun. It’s okay if your puppy doesn’t overcome the fear and get completely comfortable with the object that frightened them. End on a positive note with lots of treating/praising. This one is a balancing act during a puppy fear period.  Keep in mind that the most significant opportunity window to solidify a bombproof temperament closes at 16 weeks (4 months). While it is essential to continue socialization through your dog’s life, you want to make the absolute most of this time.  The key is to avoid exposing your puppy to traumatic experiences, but continent to socialize! Veterinarian visits and car visits should be made fun and upbeat. Things like vaccines, cold examination tables, taking rectal temperatures, visiting the groomer, placing the puppy on a scale, nail trim and being handled by strangers, are all experiences that you want to make sure you are doing, but not right in the middle of a fear period if they can be avoided. Empower your puppy, don’t be a hovercraft puppy parent.

Step 5: Try not to make a big deal about the thing your dog is afraid of, but incorporate it into future training sessions. Reward your puppy for looking at you, and any engagement with the thing they are scared of. If possible, engage your puppy with a toy. Let the puppy control the pace and stay at a distance they are comfortable with. Do not punish fear. Punishing fear will only exacerbate it and potentially solidify it.  With a 3-month-old puppy scared of everything, it is best to ignore the fear. Let your doodle puppy build confidence by letting him/her investigate things on their own when he or she is ready and praising him for the effort.

In conclusion:

Fear periods can take everyone by surprise but try not to panic. It can be helpful to keep a list of things your puppy is nervous about and try to incorporate those into future training sessions. You might be surprised to discover that the balloon that terrified your puppy yesterday might not faze them tomorrow. Try to remember this is a normal stage of development and, although it can be tempting to want to quickly show your puppy there’s nothing to be scared of, there are no shortcuts through a fear period. Your puppy is taking in an overwhelming amount of information about the world and is looking to us for reassurance and guidance. It should be our training goal whenever possible to make those experiences safe, fun, and positive.

First Puppy Vet Visit - What to Expect

What Happens During The First Vet Visit

At your puppy’s 6-week appointment with us, our vet will have examined your puppy’s vital signs (temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate), get their weight, and discuss diet and general well-being (activity level, appetite, and any problems you may have experienced). A comprehensive physical exam, including listening to the heart and lungs, palpating the abdomen, and conducting an oral exam. The vet will also check your dog’s mouth, ears, eyes, nose, and toes, as well as the skin and coat. They will also recommend core vaccinations and deworming medications for future visits. This will happen again at their 8 Week Appointment with you. Our dogs come with a CVI. You can view these on our litter document pages. We often will send home an 8-10 week additional deworming. Please mention the brand that is in your bag with your vet and ask about getting on their recommended schedule. Also, discuss flea and tick options for your area of the US.

Before your Puppy’s First Vet Visit

Puppy’s First Vet Visit Checklist

• Your Pet’s Vet Medical Record records you received from Stokeshire - see image.

• Notes on how much of what types of foods and treats you offer at home. Mention the brand of dog food that we recommend and any dog treats you’ve introduced.

• Dog carrier or crate lined with some old towels or shirts that smell like home. You want to treat throughout the visit.

• Leash and collar or harness

• Chew toy for distraction

• Any forms provided by your veterinarian that you have already filled out

• A stool sample, as fresh as possible - They will want to do a stool sample. Do not be surprised if they find some worms. This is very common. Continue on the regime that we started and continue throughout their life.

During your puppy’s first visit, the vet should:

• Weigh the puppy

• Listen to heart and lungs with a stethoscope

• Take their temperature (note: pet temperatures are taken rectally)

• Examine eyes, ears, nose, feet, and genitalia

• Examine skin and coat

• Look at teeth and mouth

• Palpate abdomen and lymph nodes

• Examine feces (bring a sample) for the presence of worms (most pups have roundworms)

• Discuss the puppy’s history and any questions you might have about feedings, medical issues, such as worm medications, and future care, such as microchipping, spaying, and neutering

• If you are going home with medications or treatments, make sure that you understand when and how they are to be given. Follow directions to the letter, and set up a schedule for follow-up visits and vaccinations

Dog CarE Discussed at your First Vet Visit

Throughout your first vet visit, the veterinary staff will discuss many important aspects of doodle puppy care

• Exercise and play requirements

• Coat care & Grooming needs

• Behavior and socialization

• Pet identification, including microchips and tags

• Reproductive health, including the benefits and risks of spaying and neutering

• Dental care - ask about Gingivitis which can progress to periodontal disease.

• Travel requirements

• Pet safety and disaster preparedness

• Nutrition

• Flea, tick, heartworm, and internal parasite control

• Vaccination schedules

• Diseases that can be spread from pets to people (and vice versa)

• Ask about ear and coat health as it relates to the Poodle & Doodle Breeds.

Are Dog Vaccinations Required By Law?

Rabies vaccinations are required by law in most states, including WI. Owners must periodically have their dogs and puppies vaccinated against rabies, but the specific time frames for puppy vaccinations and dog vaccinations vary by state. In WI, the puppy rabies vaccine is generally given at 16 weeks ( no earlier than week 15), and the first rabies vaccination is good for one year. For adult dogs, the rabies vaccination is good for three years. We recommend a puppy would receive the rabies vaccine at 20 weeks, 1 year, and then again at age 4. (See above)

Side Effects And Risks Associated With Dog Vaccinations

The benefits of vaccinations far outweigh any risks. Adverse reactions to dog vaccines are rare. However, As with any medication or immunization protocol, puppy vaccinations, and dog vaccinations can cause some side effects. Dog vaccinations stimulate your puppy or dog's immune system in order to create protection from specific infectious diseases. This can cause mild symptoms to occur ranging from soreness at the injection site to fever and allergic reactions. We do recommend that you have your puppy or dog vaccinated at a time when you can monitor them after the vaccination.

If your dog does experience any reaction to vaccinations, symptoms may include:

• Fever

• Severe sluggishness or lethargy

• Loss of appetite

• Vomiting

• Diarrhea

• Pain or swelling around the injection site

• Collapse, difficulty breathing, and seizures (anaphylactic shock)

Just as with human vaccines, mild symptoms can be ignored. The majority of reactions are mild and short-lived. If you suspect a more severe reaction to puppy vaccines or dog vaccines, such as facial swelling, vomiting, or lethargy, you should contact your veterinarian immediately to determine whether any special care is needed.

Puppy Vaccinations Cost

• The average cost can average around $75—100. These will include the core vaccines, which are administered in a series of three: at 6-, 12-, and 16 weeks old.

• The core vaccines include the DHLPP (distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvo, and parainfluenza). Your doodle pup will also need a rabies vaccination, which is usually around $15—20. (Some clinics include the cost of the rabies vaccination.)

• Routine Vet Checkup $50-$250

  
  
  

After Your First Puppy Visit

Expect that your puppy may be down and out for a few days. We recommend a probiotic. Ask your vet about the ones they may recommend. You may see some loose stool for a day or two as well. They may sleep a little extra as well. Be sure to treat them throughout their experience at the vet with treats and praise! You want this to be a good experience for them. Vet-techs are great at this!

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